标志性的巴黎小酒馆文化

2020年05月13日

来源:摩天登录国际教育服务

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在巴黎十一区,一个繁忙小酒馆的午餐时刻,几个年轻的男服务员正在餐厅里忙碌,他们以快速而优美的动作将乘着烤鸡,炸薯条,鸭腿和鞑靼牛肉的盘子送到顾客面前。

坐在酒吧的一角,一个男人点了一盘奶酪,一份蔬菜沙拉和一杯红酒,专心读着报纸。不久,一个高个的中年男子进入餐厅,喊了一声“乔治”,与坐在角落的男人击拳握手后,在他旁边的座位上坐下。很容易看出,乔治的朋友是那种拥有戏谑天赋的酒吧客人。

“你打算什么时候让我点单?”他以指责的口吻取笑酒保。

在Le Bistrot du Peintre,店员会欢快的打招呼迎接每位进店的顾客,而常客还会被叫出名字,并且被热情的握手或得到约定俗成的法式贴面礼。

Alain Fontaine想要保存和保护的正是这种独特的巴黎文化。这位厨师兼餐厅老板发起了一场备受瞩目的运动,以存在于整个巴黎的小酒馆和咖啡馆露台中的“生活艺术”来申报联合国教科文组织非物质文化遗产。

按照Fontaine的定义,一家正宗的小酒馆是一家从早到晚的营业的小餐馆,以适中的价格提供法式家常食品,并设有一个提供饮品的吧台,以供当地人在那里喝酒和畅快地聊天。

“小酒馆是一个闲聊和交流生活方式的地方,”他在自己的巴黎小酒馆Le Mesturet里谈到, “你可以看到蓝领工人与首席执行官还有办公室工作人员挤在一起,一起享受咖啡和红酒,谈天说地。任何人都能负担得起小酒馆的物价,这这里所有的社会经济界限都被消除了。”

小酒馆文化长期以来一直是巴黎神话的一部分,受到欧内斯特·海明威,斯科特·菲茨杰拉德,让·保罗·萨特和西蒙娜·德·波伏瓦等文学和哲学名流的青睐,他们将小酒馆和咖啡馆作为第二个家和办公室。

“摩天登录要捍卫的是小酒馆中的这种生活艺术,它能够拉近人们之间的距离,这是个文化大熔炉。”

It’s lunchtime at a busy neighbourhood bistro in Paris’ 11th arrondissement. A pair of young male servers are gliding through the restaurant, juggling plates groaning with roast chicken and frites, duck confit and beef tartare, and sliding them across the tables to their customers in swift but graceful movements.

Sitting in the corner of the bar, a lone man has ordered a cheese plate, a green salad and a glass of red wine, and is consumed by his newspaper. It’s not long before a tall, middle-aged man enters the restaurant, calls out ‘Georges’, shakes his hand with a hearty one-two pump and takes the seat next to him. It’s immediately apparent that Georges’ friend is the kind of bar fixture who has the gift of banter.

“When are you going to take my order?” he teases the bartender in an accusatory tone.

At Le Bistrot du Peintre, while every customer who crosses the threshold is greeted with a bright and cheerful ‘bonjour’, the regulars are welcomed by name and outstretched hands for quick, firm handshakes or customary French cheek-to-cheek kisses.

It’s this uniquely Parisian culture that Alain Fontaine wants to preserve and protect. The chef and restaurateur has launched a high-profile campaign seeking Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage status for the ‘art de vivre’ (art of living) found in bistros and cafe terraces throughout Paris.

By Fontaine’s definition, an authentic bistro is an eatery that’s open continuously morning to night, serves French comfort foods at moderate prices, and houses an active bar where locals can gather for a drink and some lively conversation.

“The bistro bar is a place of exchange, of conversation, a way of life,” he explained at his own Paris bistro Le Mesturet. “You can have a blue-collar worker elbow-to-elbow with a CEO and an office worker, sharing a coffee, a glass of wine, discussing everything and nothing. Anyone can afford bistro prices, erasing all socio-economic lines.”

The bistro culture has long been part of Parisian mythology, popularised by literary and philosophical greats like Ernest Hemingway, F Scott Fitzgerald, Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir who made bistros and cafes their second homes and offices.

“What we want to defend is this art de vivre in the bistro that allows us to live together, exchange together, this cultural melting pot.”

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